Two weeks ago Becca and I were lucky to be visited by Ash and Audra, good friends of ours from UCSB. We wanted to take them on their first Cascades climbing trip, so we set out for the Sulphide Glacier route up Mount Shuksan, one of the most photogenic peaks in the North Cascades. We overcame challenges posed by blisters, cloudy weather, and a busy summit pyramid, and had a wonderful trip.
Becca, Audra, and Ash on the climbers’ trail up towards the Sulphide Glacier.
We linked up with Ash in Burlington, and after some gear organization, got a relaxed start up the Shannon Ridge trail. We passed a number of parties, including a very large guided group, on the way up - an omen of what was to come. While the Sulphide has always been a popular climb, the closure of access to other North Cascades introductory mountaineering staples (like Eldorado, Forbidden, and Sahale) due to the Pincer Two fire I’m sure has concentrated traffic.
Heading up snow towards the Sulphide Glacier, with a nice view of Hagan in the background.
Nonetheless, the approach was pretty quick, and before long we were up at 6,400 feet on the glacier, where we lucky to find a secluded and dry campsite, even if it was a bit rocky. With plenty of parties camping on snow, it was nice to have a bit of privacy.
As the afternoon went on, clouds continued to build until we were slowly enveloped in fog. This made for a very nice ambiance when we reviewed haul systems and headed out onto the glacier to practice self arresting - everyone had a great time.
We went to sleep with intermittent overcast views out over Baker Lake and Lake Shannon.
Baker Lake and Lake Shannon stretching out to the south at dusk.
The next morning I got up early for a slightly underwhelming sunrise, with some clouds and haze. Nonetheless, the views of Seahpo, Blum, and Hagan were lovely, and a bit later, Baker even got in on the morning sunshine.
Mount Blum at sunrise to the south, with Hagan’s several summits barely poking out of the clouds.
Becca, Ash, and Audra at camp, with Mount Baker in the background.
After a leisurely breakfast, we put our crampons on and roped up to head out for the summit. We made efficient time up the firm snow, and enjoyed atmospheric views with swirling clouds and Sulphide Peak poking out of the fog. Thankfully the navigation was never tricky.
Ash and Becca wandering on the cloudy Sulphide Glacier.
Mount Baker and Sulphide Peak poking out of the cloud deck.
We arrived at the base of the summit pyramid to find, with a small amount of horror, an absolute gongshow of parties all over the southwest face. There were parties downclimbing, parties rappelling, parties with their ropes stuck, and parties pitching out third class terrain. Thankfully, our plan was to take the low-fifth South Ridge, which we were able to do with minimal delay.
Becca leading the last few feet of the South Ridge to the summit of Shuksan.
We soloed most of the ridge, then reached the very crowded summit. By this point in the morning, the undercast was pretty thick, and we had cool views of the mountain below us disappearing into the clouds. The airy north side of Shuksan was especially fun to look out over, although it was a bit of shame not be able to gaze all the way into the Nooksack Cirque (which I had skied across a few months earlier) or see most of the nearby summits.
Becca, Ash, and Audra enjoying the summit of Shuksan with a few dozen new friends.
A slightly more solitude-y angle of Audra, Ash, and Becca on the summit of Shuksan, far above the undercast.
After enjoying the views, we downclimbed the central gully, passing a number of rappelling parties (including one group trying enthusiastically to pull the large block their rope was stuck on down onto themselves) and had a grand time glissading down the Sulphide to camp.
Descending the Sulphide Glacier towards camp, with the Crystal Glacier and the Jagged ridge in the background.
We packed up and hiked out, with only a few blisters to dampen the mood. Note that, in my opinion, it’s a categorically bad idea to proclaim at the start of a trip “I never get blisters!” Sorry, Ash ;)