Last weekend I climbed Snowfield with Adam and Becca. We had some crisp temperatures that felt like Fall, enough clouds to keep the weather interesting, and a fabulous time. We had originally hoped for a longer trip, but our mid-August end of summer fakeout shortened our available time to just two days - we made the most of it!
We left Seattle at a civilized hour and retrieved our permit, then headed up the pleasant trail to Pyramid Lake, through the verdant forest. On the far side of the lake, we picked up the climbers’ trail (in great shape right now) and headed steeply up to treeline. We only saw one other party, a group of two that was headed in for 10 days, planning on doing an out-and-back Isolation traverse to climb Forbidden, since the standard access to that area via the Cascade River Road is closed at the moment. Badass (and probably the only way to get the West Ridge to yourself in good conditions ;).
Once above treeline, we were rewarded with stunning views, although most of the summits remained hidden in the clouds. We descended and sidehilled over to ever-growing lake below the Colonial Glacier, where we encountered some fierce katabatic winds - brr! Traversing around the lake was pleasant enough, once we stopped to put on more clothes, and there we cool icebergs floating in the lake - only sad to think about how they’re a sign of how the Colonial Glacier is dying.
This time of year, all the glaciers in the area are pretty much melted down to the bare ice, so we threw on crampons on headed up towards our camp at the col below Neve Peak. As we climbed, we ascended into the clouds, but routefinding was always straightforward. We set up camp at the col, then headed up Neve Peak for sunset. I wasn’t too optimistic that we’d get much in the way of views, but about fifteen minutes before sunset, the clouds slowly dissipated, initially granting us an otherwordly view of Mount Baker backlit through the fog, glowing like the Eye of Sauron. Shortly thereafter things cleared up even more, and we had an unforgettable time watching the sunset - definitely the highlight of the trip.
The next morning, I got up for sunrise, which lit up the sky with fiery orange and nice light on Paul Bunyan’s Stump and its neighbors. I went back up Neve to photograph some of the more distant mountains to the north, including a cool view of Hozomeen and the Ross Lake valley full of clouds.
Back at camp, I roused Adam and Becca and we had breakfast before heading off towards Snowfield. We passed some nice yellow Monkeyflowers on the descent down to the Neve Glacier, then roped up and headed out onto the ice. Adam did a masterful job of routing us up the glacier, and before too long we were dropping our rope and crampons and heading up the rocky west ridge towards the summit.
The views from the summit were stunning, especially towards the south - the backbone ridge is so striking from this angle! However, it looked like some weather was coming in, just as the forecast called for, so we headed back down after not too long and packed up our camp.
It rained a bit as we descended the Colonial Glacier, but somehow we avoided getting soaked. We tolerated a few more sprinkles on the trail out in exchange for a nice rainbow over Ruby (with new burn scar visible) and then blasted into Burlington for burgers. A great trip with two great people!